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	<title>My Green Organic Garden &#187; Compost Bin</title>
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		<title>Composting Myths</title>
		<link>http://www.mygreenorganicgarden.com/organic-composting/composting-myths/</link>
		<comments>http://www.mygreenorganicgarden.com/organic-composting/composting-myths/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 08 Apr 2009 15:06:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Organic Composting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Compost Bin]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[composting equipment]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[organic compost]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.mygreenorganicgarden.com/?p=184</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<p><strong>Compost Smells: This and Other Composting Myths</strong></p>
<p>Composting is a natural and simple process and yet it has been complicated by machines, fallacies, misinformation, myths, and misunderstandings that came out due to erroneous publications and aggressive commercial marketing approaches. Some of these misinformed facts have been passed around so many times that the general perception has become truth. An example would be the seemingly accepted fact that all compost smells. But before we go into that, lets discuss some other composting myths first.</p>
<p><a href="http://www.mygreenorganicgarden.com/organic-composting/composting-myths/" class="more-link">More on Composting Myths</a></p>


]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong>Compost Smells: This and Other Composting Myths</strong></p>
<p>Composting is a natural and simple process and yet it has been complicated by machines, fallacies, misinformation, myths, and misunderstandings that came out due to erroneous publications and aggressive commercial marketing approaches. Some of these misinformed facts have been passed around so many times that the general perception has become truth. An example would be the seemingly accepted fact that all compost smells. But before we go into that, lets discuss some other composting myths first.</p>
<p>Myth: Composting requires a lot of work</p>
<p>Truth: Composting is a natural process which involves basically the elements of nature doing the job for you. All you need is to gather all the materials, lay it on, and let nature do her job. Composting is a low maintenance activity as well. You only need to turn the compost file every once in a while to keep the air flowing to quicken the decomposition process and thats it. You practically sit and wait for the the compost to finish.</p>
<p>Myth: Composting is limited to farms and wide open spaces</p>
<p>Truth: On the contrary, people living in urban areas who have no luxury for space can create their own composting bin from a trash can. How much space would that take up? Also, there is another technique which you can use, the so-called vermicomposting which involves the use of red worms in a contained bin where you feed them table scraps.</p>
<p>Myth: Composting needs precise measurements</p>
<p>Truth: Even though composting ideally would be best achieved with the right combination of greens and browns elements, having the exact measurements is not that necessary. Estimates work just fine. And those neatly piled up layers of composting piles you see in commercials, books, pamphlets and brochures of composting products, those are all for show. You dont need to copy those, composting works the same way as you pile them up haphazardly.</p>
<p>Myth: You need specially formulated chemicals as starters or activators</p>
<p>Truth: Well, despite the claims of commercially available products that applying them to the compost pile will speed up the process of decomposition, buying them is not really necessary. It is often the practice to just throw in some finished compost into the newly formed compost pile and that itself will serve as the activator to get things started. Theres no need to buy those expensive stuff.</p>
<p>Myth: Adding yeast will boost the composts performance</p>
<p>Truth: This is not true at all. What youre doing is just wasting your money by adding yeast to the compost pile. Yeast does not do anything to the compost pile and neither does it affect the performance quality of the compost.</p>
<p>Myth: Animals are attracted to composting piles</p>
<p>Truth: Yes, this to some degree is true. Composting piles do attract the occasional cat, dog or raccoon. Small critters will likely go for open compost piles and for piles that have kitchen scraps like meat, fat, dairy products, bones and pet manure to the pile.</p>
<p>Myth: Compost smells</p>
<p>Truth: Compost should not smell. If you find bad smelling compost, then the maker did a poor job picking the materials for the compost pile.</p>
<p>Other composting myths exist and it would be best to do your research first before accepting them as truth.</p>
<p>Enjoy your composting</p>
<p>Steve Cownley</p>
<p>http://organic-gardening.net46.net</p>
<p>http://infoblog.net78.net/</p>


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		<title>Home Composting, the Good the Bad and the Ugly</title>
		<link>http://www.mygreenorganicgarden.com/blog/home-composting-the-good-the-bad-and-the-ugly/</link>
		<comments>http://www.mygreenorganicgarden.com/blog/home-composting-the-good-the-bad-and-the-ugly/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Mar 2009 12:22:16 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Organic Gardening]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Chemicals]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Compost Bin]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.mygreenorganicgarden.com/gardening/home-composting-the-good-the-bad-and-the-ugly/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[<div style="float:left; padding: 12px"><a href="/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/composting4.jpg"><img src="/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/composting4.jpg" title='' alt='' /></a></div>
<p>I hope you found my last article on composting informative but there were a few things I didn't go through last time that I would like to touch base on now. You found out last time that there are basic needs that you need to give for a compost to be productive. Those basic needs are air, food, and water. Now that we have the basics down, and we know how to properly deliver these basics I will now get a little more in depth into what you should and shouldn't put into your compost.</p>
<p>Let's start off with what you shouldn't put in your compost bin. This is an area I really could have used some more knowledge in my first time using a fresh batch of compost in my garden.</p>
<p>1) Any wood product that has been chemically treated (pressure treated lumber) should be left out of your compost. When the wood or sawdust from these types of wood get broken down the chemicals that were used to treat the wood leach into the compost and will ruin the garden or plants that you use the compost in.</p>
<p>2) Diseased plants may infect your garden if the compost was not hot enough to kill off all of the disease. So unless you want to play Russian roulette with next year's garden I would stay away from composting diseased plants.</p>
<p>3) Human and pet waste should never be used in a compost by a back yard gardener. Although possible to effectively compost these materials you take the risk of your pile not being hot enough to kill off all of the diseases that are carried in the waste. There are people who do this type of composting but they are well trained in hot composts and know the temperature and time it takes to safely decompose this type of matter. For the back yard enthusiast I would recommend staying away.</p>
<p>4) Fatty foods and meat waste (including bones) should be left out as well. They will take forever to break down and the local rats and mice may make your compost their new watering hole. If you want to still use these materials you can bury them in your 8" deep in your garden. This will make sure the little vermin can't smell and then get at your leftovers.</p>
<p>5) Pernicious weeds can be a particular pest to compost because even if you chop them up really well these types of weeds will still be able to sprout new roots while in the compost. But there is a way. After weeding leave the uprooted weeds in a pile in the direct sunlight for a couple weeks until they are nice and brown. Then they are safe.</p>
<p>Remember How I said I could have used some of this info in my first compost bin. I found out #5 the hard way. I chopped up a few morning glories into my first compost and the next season I was pulling dozens of them out of my garden where there was none before.</p>
<p>The next thing to learn is what you should put in your compost.</p>
<p>1) Grass is a good material to put in your compost but I have always found it easier to leave it on the ground to help the lawn. But if you decide to use them in your compost make sure to add your grass in thin layers, and mix thoroughly to avoid a slimy layer that will not want to break down.</p>
<p>2) If you want a great material to put in your compost bin, kitchen waste is the way to go. Form fruits and vegetable leftovers, to tea and coffee grounds, this stuff is great to compost. One thing to consider is to make sure your compost bin is secure so this type of waste does not attract the local vermin population like meat products would. Although this type of kitchen waste will break down a lot faster than the meat products will it may still be tempting for a mouse or rat so you may want to think about a bin with a secure top. Avoid milk products as well since this also is a big lure for rats and mice.</p>
<p>3) Leaves can be a great source of material for your compost. Just to think people just rake up and throw away this stuff. If you are feeling energetic why not rake up the neighbor's lawn too. Think of all the point around the block you could earn with your neighbors. Like grass leaves should be mixed in well to avoid clumping up and turning into a big mat in the middle of your bin.</p>
<p>4) Hay and Straw will make an ideal "Brown" ingredient to your mix. Not only will they supply a good nitrogen source for all the little microbes to feast on but they also help your pile from packing down and not allowing enough air to the center of the pile. Remember when you have a "Brown" ingredient in your pile you will also need "green" ingredients (grass, fruits and vegetables) to make the decomposition go quickly.</p>
<p>Thank you for taking the time to read my article on the materials best suited for your compost bin. I will be writing one more article on composting to go along with this and my last one so I hope you will come back soon to check it out.</p>
<p>About the Author:
</p>
<p><a href="http://www.mygreenorganicgarden.com/blog/home-composting-the-good-the-bad-and-the-ugly/" class="more-link">More on Home Composting, the Good the Bad and the Ugly</a></p>


]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div style="float:left; padding: 12px"><a href="/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/composting4.jpg"><img src="/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/composting4.jpg" title='' alt='' /></a></div>
<p>I hope you found my last article on composting informative but there were a few things I didn't go through last time that I would like to touch base on now. You found out last time that there are basic needs that you need to give for a compost to be productive. Those basic needs are air, food, and water. Now that we have the basics down, and we know how to properly deliver these basics I will now get a little more in depth into what you should and shouldn't put into your compost.<br/><br/>Let's start off with what you shouldn't put in your compost bin. This is an area I really could have used some more knowledge in my first time using a fresh batch of compost in my garden.<br/><br/>1) Any wood product that has been chemically treated (pressure treated lumber) should be left out of your compost. When the wood or sawdust from these types of wood get broken down the chemicals that were used to treat the wood leach into the compost and will ruin the garden or plants that you use the compost in.<br/><br/>2) Diseased plants may infect your garden if the compost was not hot enough to kill off all of the disease. So unless you want to play Russian roulette with next year's garden I would stay away from composting diseased plants.<br/><br/>3) Human and pet waste should never be used in a compost by a back yard gardener. Although possible to effectively compost these materials you take the risk of your pile not being hot enough to kill off all of the diseases that are carried in the waste. There are people who do this type of composting but they are well trained in hot composts and know the temperature and time it takes to safely decompose this type of matter. For the back yard enthusiast I would recommend staying away.<br/><br/>4) Fatty foods and meat waste (including bones) should be left out as well. They will take forever to break down and the local rats and mice may make your compost their new watering hole. If you want to still use these materials you can bury them in your 8" deep in your garden. This will make sure the little vermin can't smell and then get at your leftovers.<br/><br/>5) Pernicious weeds can be a particular pest to compost because even if you chop them up really well these types of weeds will still be able to sprout new roots while in the compost. But there is a way. After weeding leave the uprooted weeds in a pile in the direct sunlight for a couple weeks until they are nice and brown. Then they are safe.<br/><br/>Remember How I said I could have used some of this info in my first compost bin. I found out #5 the hard way. I chopped up a few morning glories into my first compost and the next season I was pulling dozens of them out of my garden where there was none before.<br/><br/>The next thing to learn is what you should put in your compost.<br/><br/>1) Grass is a good material to put in your compost but I have always found it easier to leave it on the ground to help the lawn. But if you decide to use them in your compost make sure to add your grass in thin layers, and mix thoroughly to avoid a slimy layer that will not want to break down.<br/><br/>2) If you want a great material to put in your compost bin, kitchen waste is the way to go. Form fruits and vegetable leftovers, to tea and coffee grounds, this stuff is great to compost. One thing to consider is to make sure your compost bin is secure so this type of waste does not attract the local vermin population like meat products would. Although this type of kitchen waste will break down a lot faster than the meat products will it may still be tempting for a mouse or rat so you may want to think about a bin with a secure top. Avoid milk products as well since this also is a big lure for rats and mice.<br/><br/>3) Leaves can be a great source of material for your compost. Just to think people just rake up and throw away this stuff. If you are feeling energetic why not rake up the neighbor's lawn too. Think of all the point around the block you could earn with your neighbors. Like grass leaves should be mixed in well to avoid clumping up and turning into a big mat in the middle of your bin.<br/><br/>4) Hay and Straw will make an ideal "Brown" ingredient to your mix. Not only will they supply a good nitrogen source for all the little microbes to feast on but they also help your pile from packing down and not allowing enough air to the center of the pile. Remember when you have a "Brown" ingredient in your pile you will also need "green" ingredients (grass, fruits and vegetables) to make the decomposition go quickly.<br/><br/>Thank you for taking the time to read my article on the materials best suited for your compost bin. I will be writing one more article on composting to go along with this and my last one so I hope you will come back soon to check it out.<br/><br/><br/><br/>About the Author: </p>
<p>Hi my name is Doug and I live in the Okanagan Valley in British Colombia BC. I have spent most of my life working my way through various different career paths that has helped me develop a diverse knowledge base to which I write on. For more on gardening and more for your home and health needs go to<br />
<a href="http://homeandhealthmishmash.blogspot.com/">Home and Health MishMash</a></p></p>


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